Friday, September 21, 2012

Rescued 80's Challis via Butterick 4132

 I finally decided to use the pretty rayon challis I've rescued from one of those 1980's working-girl era full skirts. I wore it under a long sweater with shoulder pads back in the day.  The sweater's long gone and good riddance. Over the years,though,  every time I clean out the closet and winnow the wardrobe, I keep the skirt because the fabric is beautiful - very soft,  rich green with cherries, fun yet elegant - the kind of fabric you never see in retail clothing any more. 

I decided to use Butterick 4132.  The sewing folks at pattern review loved this pattern and the drapiness would make the most of the fabric's qualities.  It also appeared to use very little fabric to make view A.  But more about that later.  You can see that I recorded the pattern review folks' A+ score on the envelope along with a note that they said to beware of the  facings for the flutter-sleeved version.


I had plenty of fabric once I released it from the skirt, laundered & ironed it and straightened the edges - or so I thought.  Two big panels. I held the pattern pieces up against it in a casual kind of way and decided it would work fine.  However, I forgot to take into account the fact that the pattern is cut on the bias. The pattern is designed with the cowl attached to front and armhole facings.  The cowl doubles back onto itself and attaches to face the armholes - which makes for a big piece, wide from top to bottom.  On the bias, I didn't have enough width for the top of the pattern piece,  so I had to forgo the inside armhole facings and make narrow hems on the armholes instead.  It was easy, though, because the front and back are cut on the bias.  I'm glad I did, because the facing in the back seems a little overly bulky for the softness and lightness for the rest of the top.

The cowl is cut like a large scarf, tongue shaped, inside the blouse, which is nice for coverage when you lean forward. It drapes from fairly wide on the shoulders, which is very attractive and rich looking.

I looks exactly like the picture on the envelope, too, which is always a happy result.

Here it is loose and tucked in.  The tucked pic was taken in the mirror at my office with better color clarity but since I had to hold the camera, throws the drapery off a bit.  It doesn't photograph terribly well  but looks great. Very elegant and flattering.